The rock of Dunadd, a few miles north of Lochgilphead, marks the place where the Scots established their headquarters after landing from Ireland around 500AD, and it can rightfully claim to be the birthplace of Scotland. It is also at the heart of present-day Argyll, which roughly corresponds to the area covered by this guide. There are a range of routes across different terrains, including a walk around the Isle of Iona, with its wealth of ancient monuments, superb beaches and an ascent up Ben More, the highest peak on Mull.